I am a stay at home mum who loves makin n burning candles to warm up my home. I have decided to turn my hobby of candles into a little home based business so I can offer and share my love of candles with u all.
Available Fragrances
Lime & coconut
White tea & berries
Frangipani
Citronella
Coconut & peach
Mango
Pineapple coconut
Wild strawberry
Innocence
Fig & cassis
Guava
Tropical rain
Sweet honeycomb
Fig & melon
Watermelon
Pink grapefruit
Satin sheets
White tea & lavender
Seaside spa
Japanese honeysuckle
Cinnamon & spice
French pear
Musk stick
Monkey farts
Black raspberry sugar
Oatmeal milk & honey
Sweet pea
Cucumber melon
Gourmet Tahitian vanilla
Passionfruit
Baby powder
Iced cinnamon roll
Clean cotton
Pomegranate
Hansel & Gretels house
Fresh ginger
Rosé & champagne
Sex on the beach
DragonsBlood
Sandalwood & Amber
Lavender
Cotton Candy
Bubblegum
Blueberry Cobbler
Vanilla
Please Note: Some fragrance are limited and if not popular will not be to be kept in stock but I can order more if you want
Also any fragrance not there let me know and I can source it out and get it in
Never leave a burning candle unattended.
Always burn candles on a heat resistant surface. Candle holders may become hot and damage furniture. A good heat resistant surface can be made from a ceramic tile, or better still, purchase a candle plate holder.
Keep burning candles away from children and pets.
Keep burning candles away from drafts as it causes uneven burning, excessive smoking, and can shorten the burning time of your candle.
Place pillar candles on a curved candle plate or in a shallow dish or bowl, to catch the wax in case of a blow-out.
Do not burn candles to the very bottom.
CANDLE BURNING INSTRUCTIONS
The following burning tips will help you get the most out of your candles:
Always keep the wick trimmed to 1/4 inch (6mm) as this reduces smoking and increases burn time.
Do not allow wick trimmings or any other flammable item (i.e. a match) to fall into the candle as it can create a fire hazard.
For the most efficient burning of the candle, allow it to burn until the wax melts almost completely across the candle. Burning for very short periods of time will cause "tunnelling" (burning a small hole down the center of the candle).
Do not burn the candle for more than 4 hours at any time. Allow the candle to cool (let the wax solidify) and trim wick back to ¼ inch (6mm) before relighting.
Burn candles on a secure, level, heat-resistant surface, such as a candle plate holder or glass container, well away from flammable items. Consider where the wax might end up should it spill or be knocked over. For safety, it's best even when using a container candle (jar, glass votive, etc.) to put heat-resistant material under the actual container.
If a candle burns unevenly, it is usually because it is in a draft. Rotate the candle 90 degrees periodically to keep burning uniform, or move it to another location.
If the wick is off centre it will also cause an uneven burn. While the wax is still warm, move the wick back into the correct position. Be careful not to burn your fingers - use the side of a teaspoon.
A teaspoon of water in the bottom of a votive glass will help prevent overheating and ease removal of the spent candle.
Container candles should burn till the melted wax covers the entire surface. This will improve scent throw and extend the burning time.
Refrigerating candles for a few minutes before burning extends burn time slightly. Care must be taken since refrigerating for too long is likely to causing cracking.
Never burn a candle right to the bottom, leave at least ½ inch otherwise it can create too much heat and burn through on to the candle's surface!
To regain the colour and lustre of a non-textured candle, buff with a soft cotton cloth or an old nylon stocking and a little salad oil to remove dust and small scratches. This process revitalises the candle's sheen. The heat from the candle tends to dull the candle finish, but it can easily be regained with this simple maintenance tip.
CANDLE SPILLS
Following the Candle Safety Rules above should minimize the chances of needing the following instructions. Note: wax can damage a surface, but often it is your efforts to remove the wax that causes the most damage, so make every effort to avoid spills.
If in doubt, please call a professional for assistance.
Wax on Carpet - may cause staining.
Let the wax harden, then break up and remove as much as possible.
Place paper towels over the wax.
Using a hot steam iron, lightly place above or on the paper towel - the wax will melt into the paper towel. If desired, protect the iron with tin foil.
Repeat as needed.
Check the iron for wax residue before using for clothing again.
Wax on Clothing - may cause staining.
Remove garment.
Let the wax harden (place in the frige or freezer for a short time), then phsyically remove as much wax as possible.
Pour boiling water through the affected area.
Repeat as necessary.
Do not use the carpet method on clothes as it could "set" the candle dye in the fabric.
Wax on Solid surfaces(wood floors, furniture, counters, etc...) - may cause damage to the finish.
Do not wipe up the spill as a thin film of wax is much harder to remove than a solid piece.
If you catch it while the wax is still liquid, try to build a dam to confine the spill - a ruler works well for this, but a handy alternative is the side of a bread board, even a pen or pencil.
Once the wax has solidified, gently pry it loose from the surface. Try to avoid scratching the finish.
If necessary, pry the wax off with a plastic spatula or similar object. Avoid this if possible as it increases the chances of damaging the wood finish.
Only the best soy wax is used and all other products are the best quality I have sourced
PARAFFIN WAX
There are many misconceptions about the use of paraffin wax in candles, but we find that a fully refined paraffin wax produces beautiful, excellent quality, long burning candles. It is the only wax capable of producing really stunning colours!
Referencing an article from www.igiwax.com entitled 'Paraffin Wax... A Safe & Natural Product':
"Paraffin wax is a natural wax derived from ancient plant and animal forms that lived millions of years ago. Once obtained from the ground, this product is transported and processed (refined) into many different product forms, one of which is paraffin wax. Fully refined paraffin wax is a non-reactive, non-toxic, colourless mixture of hydrocarbons that is solid at ambient temperature, thermoplastic in nature and is effective as a moisture barrier and clean burning fuel. Due to its very nature, few substances will chemically react with or bind to paraffin wax thus making it a convenient and safe raw material to use in many different applications."
SOY WAX
Soy wax is derived from the soybean oil that is extracted from soybeans, and through a process called hydrogenation, is turned into a solid wax. It is considered to be made from a renewable resource and is mostly produced in the United States.
Soy wax is known for its clean burning qualities. It produces a quick and long lasting scent throw which is a result of a lower melting point and cooler burning candles. This creates a larger wax pool around the burning wick to promote the release of the fragrance from within the wax.
Soy wax also produces very little soot. Soy is definitely the best type of wax to use in container candles for these reasons. Wax spills are also very easy to clean up with hot soapy water.
Soy wax in its purest form does not produce satisfactory pillar candles and through extensive trials, we have found that adding paraffin or palm wax to the soy wax, gives us the best result - it creates a harder wax which helps the candles hold their shape.
PALM WAX
Palm wax is an all-natural, renewable resource that is obtained from the oil palm in well managed and regulated estates. Due to its environmentally friendly attributes, palm wax offers us, as candle makers, an alternative choice to paraffin and soy wax. We do NOT source our wax from any supplier that contributes to the deforestation of habitat.
We purchase several palm waxes - Icicle, Cloud, Feather & Spider. By far the most popular of the palm waxes is Feather. The beautiful crystal formations that form on the outside of the candle are greatly influenced by the pouring temperature and rate of cooling. By adjusting these variables slightly, we can create a wonderful array of crystal formations.
There has been quite a lot of media lately about the destruction of rain forests in South-East Asia (home to some of the most bio-diverse ecosystems in the world). With the threat of losing these rain forests and destroying the livelihood of native people, orang-utan, Sumatran tiger populations and other important wildlife, we don't purchase palm wax from any supplier that involves itself in any such destruction of the environment.
WICKS
We purchase wicks which are made of cotton. They are lead and zinc free.
SCENTS
We source Australian based, high quality essential oils and synethic oils to scent our candles. Our speciality is triple scented aromatic candles, but we can do single scented or no scent candles on request.
Most of us love triple scented candles and want our choosen candle scent to fill the room for us to enjoy, but we do have customers who prefer just a little scent, or no scent at all, which we can easily accommodate.
We can also glaze your candle. Glazing is a unique coating which effectively blocks scent, this way you can enjoy the scent of the candle when it's lit, but at all other times, it produces no scent whatsoever, which is great for those with allergies.
CANDLE FINISHES
There are 3 important factors which greatly influence the uniqueness of a candle’s finish. (1) wax type; (2) the pouring & cooling temperature used; and (3) the addition of essential oils or premium plant derived fragrances.
Here is a brief description about each type of candle finish:
RUSTIC: The finish produces a wide variety of interesting surface blemishes. It usually looks aged, chalky, rough, has frost lines, is nostalgic. It is the most common of all candle finishes.
MOTTLED (snowflake): The finish is physically created by a chemical reaction during the candle making process. This process creates air bubbles and other defects, which appear white, and provide a delightful colour contrast that adds character to the candle.
CHUNK: The candle has chunks of coloured candle pieces placed into the mold, then a transulent moulten wax is poured over the pieces. In the finished candle you see the chunks embedded into the candle and the moulten wax takes on a hue of colour - very popular, a real "character" candle!
FEATHER: An elegant candle that speaks quality and sophistication. Using palm wax and high temperatures, the moulton wax when it sets, crystalises leaving a soft white pattern in the outer layer. Often the finish is referred to by the pattern .. feather, icicles, cloud, spider vein etc.
OPAQUE: A rich and creamy smooth finish, commonly associated with soy wax. Unfortunately, soy wax is very soft and we must blend other waxes with it to give pillar candles their strength. The alternative to this is to use chemicals to harden the wax, which we prefer not to do.
If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask!